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Common ring settings

Ring settings, also named ring mountings are the most important components of rings in combination with diamonds, gemstones, pearls or coins. The mounting you choose, will be decided primarily by your personal preference. Nevertheless, it makes sense to learn more about the common ring settings available in the US. If you read the following information about ring settings carefully, you are more than prepared for a small talk with a jeweler.

Common ring settings in the US:

  1. Bezel settings
  2. Prong settings
  3. Gypsy settings
  4. Illusion setting
  5. Flat-top and bead settings
  6. Channel settings
  7. Bar settings
  8. Pavé settings
  9. Cluster settings

Bezel ring settings

+ very safe setting – losing a stone is nearly impossible
+ the bezel mounting can make a ruby looking redder and an emerald looking greener
– the bezel mounting could hide flaws like inclusions or chips

With a bezel ring setting, a rim holds the stone and completely surrounds the diamond or another gemstone. Bezel mountings can have straight edges, scalloped edges, or can be molded into any shape to accommodate the stone. The backs can be open or closed. An open back might be an indication for a real diamond because the manufacturer wants you to look in. When he has used a real diamond, he has nothing to hide. Closed backs might be also an indication for an unreal stone like a zirconia. An advantage of the bezel ring setting is that it can make a diamond looking more sparkling.

Customers beware: another advantage of a bezel ring setting is that this type of setting can hide small flaws like a chip, a nick or inclusions. Ask your dealer for hidden flaws under the bezel setting. He will be very surprised about your expert knowledge.

Using a bezel setting for yellow gold: the yellow gold of the bezel setting will be reflected into your diamond or your zirconia. The huger the stone, the more visible are the reflections. Therefore bezel ring settings are more used in combination with white gold. A bezel setting can be a disadvantage in combination with yellow gold but also an advantage if your ring comes with a ruby or an emerald. A yellow gold ring bezel can make a ruby looking redder or an emerald looking greener.

Prong ring settings

+ gorgeous looking diamonds just use 3 prongs
+ best view to your diamond without barriers
– you could lose your loved diamond if just one prong fails

We estimate that prong settings are maybe the most common type of ring mountings for diamonds. Prong settings occur in many different types: three-prong, four-prong- five-prong, six-prong or even with more prongs. The prongs can be designed in infinite variations: pointed, rounded, flat or V-shaped.

A huge diamond set in a three-prong mounting looks gorgeous but might be a risk. You can lose your diamond if just one prong fails. That can’t happen to you if you have a ring with a four-prong mounting or more. On the other hand, too many prongs can make a ring looking overloaded.

A very important advantage of a prong ring mounting is that you can gaze at your beloved diamond from all sides without any barriers

Gypsy ring settings

+ very safe setting – losing a stone is nearly impossible
+ decent and clean design
– limited view to your diamond or stone

This type of mounting has a shank made of one piece that gets broader at the top of the ring. On the top it’s shaped like a dome. At the center of the top is an opening, whereto the diamond or the stone can be set. Gypsy settings have no prongs to fix the set stone. The design looks very decent and clean. Gypsy settings are more common to men’s jewelry.

Illusion ring settings

+ illusion settings let the diamond or the stone appear larger
+ very safe setting – losing a stone is nearly impossible
– in the majority of cases old-fashioned

As the name suggests, an illusion setting offers a way to make a diamond looking larger than it actually is. If the designer wants that the stone appears larger, the mounting will be made of platinum or palladium. Taking just a brief look, an observer will imagine an amazing stone. In reality the set diamond can be significantly smaller than the first impression simulates. Illusion settings are more old fashion and not very common anymore. You will find illusion ring mountings among inherited or vintage gold more often than among modern jewelry.

Flat top ring settings

+ very safe setting – losing a stone is nearly impossible
– in the majority of cases old-fashioned

In a flat-top ring mounting a faceted stone is placed into a hole in the flat top of the metal and held in place by small chips. This small chips are often formed as small beads therefore this setting is often also named as bead setting. It can be said that flat-top mountings are more old-fashioned than the illusion setting.

Channel ring setting

+ amazing ring setting, especially when the channel with the stones goes completely around the ring
+ very popular and also favoured for wedding bands
– stones can break out of the channel

As the name suggests, the stones are set in a channel. This type of setting is not only loved for wedding bands. Channel settings live a revolution and are more popular than ever before. Famous brands like Tiffany and Co. or Van Cleef & Arpels are offering rings coming with channel settings. A feature of channel settings is that the stones are set in the channel without separating them with beads, prongs or metals. Very popular designs are channel mountings that go completely around the ring.

Bar ring setting

+ in a modern design: very popular
+ this setting popped up again in the last years
– stones can break out of the setting

This setting is related to the channel setting. It is used in a circular band and rather than using prongs, each stone is held in the ring by a long thin bar, separating two stones. The design may remembers you of stacked gold bars.

Pavé ring setting

+ pavé settings can bring amazing rings
+ very popular
– stones can break out of the setting

This setting is used to set countless stones together in a special cluster with no metals, beads or prongs separating the stones. The impressive impression is that the ring is entirely paved with stones. Handmade pavé settings can be extremely expensive. Famous jewelry brands like Tiffany & Co. seize this ring mounting for their actual collection. Pavé ring settings popped up again during the last years and they can be seen in the everyday life.

Cluster ring setting

+ can look amazing when brilliant manufactured
+ very modern and stylish
– stones or pearls can break out of the setting

A cluster ring mounting consists of one large stone or even a pearl and several smaller stones or pearls. A cluster setting is designed to create a lovely ring representing several smaller stones or pearls. Cluster rings are also very common. Not only exclusive brands like Tiffany & Co. produce rings with cluster settings. Rings coming with cluster settings have been seen already at H&M, Zara, Michael Kors or Marc Jacobs.

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